Want to learn to Kite?

How To Get Started

Why aren’t you kiting?
Kiting will alter your life. There’s no other sport that allows you to get as much air and learn tricks so fast. Kiteboarding takes the best of windsurfing, wakeboarding, snowboarding and paragliding and combines it all into one insane sport. There’s no other feeling like being fully lit while riding on the water. If you haven’t tried it yet, start kiting today. You’ll thank us for a new lifestyle and addiction.

Take Lessons.
Lessons are the fastest, easiest, and safest way to begin kiteboarding. Even if you consider yourself highly athletic in other sports, you’ll want to take lessons prior to purchasing a kite. Given the right instruction, learning to kite is easy and safe. Most people don’t want to spend the extra money on lessons, but given the extreme power of the kite, you endanger yourself and others by not. The cost of lessons varies, but professional advice and instruction is worth more than the monetary cost involved. Typically hourly rates are around R150 -R250 depending on whether you use your own gear or rent, and daily and package rates are a little less expensive. Course prices start from as little as R295- BOOK NOW

What should I buy?
We use specifically designed gear for learning. School kites are easy to handle, and the boards are forgiving and buoyant. Let your first experiences with kiting be fun. To help you get up and going we have created a beginner package just for you. Once you have completed your course, we have a special package deal just for you! Buy a kite complete with bar and lines, a board and a harness of your choice as a package deal. Everything you need to start riding as soon as possible! BUY

The Learning Stages

It is vital to take a lesson as there are a lot of safety steps that are essential to learn and ensure kiting is safe and fun and for everyone around you. The following information is to show you what you can expect from a lesson, and is not intended to replace or provide one. Also, use an IKO instructor to gain the best possible advice.

1. The trainer Kite
The first thing to do to get into kiting is learn how to fly a kite. The safest and easiest way to get started is to spend 20–50 hours on a trainer kite. A trainer kite is usually a 1-2m foil kite BUY. That may seem like a lot of time, but it’s much easier to learn the lessons and get to the point where flying a kite becomes second nature on a trainer kite than on a powerful inflatable kite.

2. The Wind Window
With the trainer kite you will need to figure out how to get the kite into the neutral positions along the “wind window”. If your back is to the wind, the wind window is the arc that extends from your left side to your right side, with directly overhead being the middle and "neutral position". This neutral zone is necessary for launching and landing and it is essential to be extremely efficient in getting the kite there and handling the kite in the neutral wind window. You want to be able to get the kite to neutral as quickly as possible from any possible kite location in the sky.

3. The Power Zone
Once you’ve mastered the neutral zone it is time to start getting the kite into the power zones. A good way to generate power is to dip the kite from the 11 to 7 clock positions in a figure 8 motion. Then to do the same figure 8 motion on the other side from the 1 to 5 clock positions. This motion is called your power stroke as you bring the kite through the power zone where the kite is most powerful. This power stroke is the same motion that you will use while body dragging, getting up on the board and then when you’re up and riding on the board.

4. Other Exercises and Practice
Once you’ve gotten efficient at generating the power stroke you’re a few more steps away from doing your first body drag. It’s a good idea to spend a lot of time flying the kite one handed, backwards and with eyes closed as these are all situations that will occur while out on the water and it’s better to figure out how to recover with a 1-2m kite than a larger one. Try to put yourself in every possible situation and get efficient at bringing the kite to neutral. After you’ve spent 20-50 hours with the trainer kite, flying the kite will become second nature, so rather than thinking about flying the kite you can focus on other things, like where you’re going and trying to get the board on your feet.

5. Depower or Flag Your Kite
Now that you’re efficient at flying the kite it’s time to learn water safety. The first important lesson to internalise is how to completely depower the kite. Depending on the bar and system, the methods can vary. In general you want to have the reflex or instinct to “throw your bar” if you’re in any kind of trouble or uncomfortable. On every bar that motion should completely depower the kite. Depending on the system, and especially if you have the SHIFT system, you should be able to quickly recover and get ready to water relaunch.

6. The Water Relaunch
Throughout your kite-life you will undoubtedly spend countless hours relaunching your kite. Some kites will relaunch better than others and there are systems now to aid this process. Depending on the wind and the kite it can be an incredibly frustrating process or it can be a non-issue. The basic idea is while the kite is floating on the water, it will tend to retain it’s shape due to the inflatable structure and it will make it’s way downwind of you sitting on it’s leading edge, pulling downwind. Once it’s in this position you have to get the kite to flip on it’s back, either by swimming at it and relieving the tension in the back lines, or by pulling on the center lines with the SHIFT system. However you get the kite on its back, once it’s there you need to pull on one side and allow the kite to fill with air creating a “C” formation. Once in the “C” shape it should be easy to fly it out of the water. This is a technique that takes quite a bit of practice and even an experienced relauncher can have issues if there is current in the water or not enough wind. It is best to have a teacher show you the process and then spend a lot of time getting the technique down before going out and having to swim in.

7. The Body Drag
Now that you’re a good kite handler, you’ve learned all the ways to depower and release your kite, and you know how to get the kite relaunched, you’re probably ready to go on your first body drag. If you have someone who cares about you and is an experienced kite handler it is nice to have them do a tandem drag, where they hold onto your harness handle and talk you through the process. If you don’t have anyone like that and are anxious to get going, have your teacher watch you and be prepared to come get you downwind, because you will be going downwind. If you’re unfamiliar with sailing terminology you now need to learn the term “tack” because that’s what you’ll be doing. You will be tacking downwind in a zigzag motion. You will be generating your power strokes one side to go one direction and then on the other side to go the other direction. Keep the kite movements slow and have two thoughts in your head: 1. How to quickly get to neutral 2. How to immediately depower your kite and/or quick release

8. Body Dragging Upwind
Now that you’re up and riding and having a blast, it’s time to learn how to body drag upwind so that you don't lose your board. Learning this is essential as we don't recommend using a board leash at all. If you wipe-out and are separated from your board, or if the wind is light and it isn't possible to get going on the board and kite home, body dragging is your only option. To body drag upwind you need to learn how to use your arm like a rudder to edge against the kite and use the power of the kite to go upwind. To do this, point your leading hand upwind and try to lay your body perpendicular to your kite lines. Stretch out and use the length of your body as resistance to the kite. It is the same technique that you use with the board on your feet to go upwind and it may take a little while to learn, but make sure you know this before you go out in deep water. Try doing the body drag while holding the board (in an edging style, weight on windward rail) in your pointing/leading hand. It will give you the ability to tack up wind in sub 10 knots. Learn this for light winds and if the wind turns offshore. Once you’ve mastered this, you’re ready to venture safely almost anywhere.

9. Getting up on the Board and Riding!
After you’ve done a number of body drags and are feeling confident with your kite skills, you’re ready to start getting up on the board. Contrary to most preconceived ideas, you don’t have to have prior board riding experience. The kite’s upward pull and the general dynamics should make riding the board pretty easy. It is best to have a bigger board while starting as you will require less power from the kite to get going. It is also important to wear a helmet and have all your safety techniques down pat. It is a very exciting day when you can kite back to the same place you launched, this is when you can officially call yourself a kiteboarder - now it’s time to buy 5 kites, 2 boards and way too many expensive accessories!!! :-)
FAQ's

What is a Kite?
Kites take two basic forms, foils and inflatables. Foil kites look like parachutes and are mostly used on land for training, but may also be used on the water. Inflatables are the large arc shaped kites generally used in kiteboarding. They work much better in the water as the inflatable structure allows for flotation and relaunching. Kites are also classified by line configuration, 2-line or 4/5-line. Kites with 4/5-lines have the ability to depower, while 2-line kites do not. 4/5-line kites are most commonly used for today’s kiteboarding as they offer a greater range of power. 2-line kites are often used in the instructional phases of kiteboarding due to their simplicity.

How many kites do I need?
Because this sport is wind dependant, it is very hard to predict which kites will be most appropriate for any individual, plus whenever you buy a new kite it blows too hard or not enough! Murphy's Law # 45!! The sizes of your quiver depends on where you’ll be kiting, your body size and which board you’ll be using. An ideal quiver would consist of 3–4 kites, with a smaller kite for the high wind days and a bigger kite for light wind days. Someone living in an area which averages 25 knot winds and who is 70kgs might have a 8.0m, an 10m, and a 14m, whereas someone in an area that gets lighter winds on average, might have an 12m, a 16m and a 20m. It really depends where you’ll be kiting and your individual specs. It’s a good idea to talk to the locals and research the average conditions before buying a quiver. You can get by with only 1 kite, which should be the average kite for average winds. In Cape Town & Langebaan a 12m is best. A 14m or 12m in Durban. A 12m in PE & EL. And JHB is dependant on how far you want to travel.

Should I use a waist or a seat harness?
That is mostly a personal preference. It is a good idea to try them all and see which you find most comfortable. For people who have back problems, often a seat harness is more comfortable as you can use your lower body weight and rear-end to push against the kite and hold it down. The impact harness adds the benefit of upper body protection. In general, most women prefer seat harnesses, because with a lower center of gravity it easier to hold down more kite. The waist harnesses often ride up to where women’s waists are narrower and can be uncomfortable, especially so when body-dragging. Overall, waist harness are the most commonly used harness. BUY

How do board size and rider weight affect the suggested wind range rating of a kite?
Many factors affect the wind range of a kite such as board size, rider weight, riding ability and riding style (super lit or just powered). Each of these factors can adjust the recommended wind range for a particular kite. The general idea is that the bigger the board and the lighter the person, the smaller the kite that is needed. The basic idea behind rider weight and wind range is that a heavier rider, in general, will shift the wind range up. A kite that has a wind range of 20-30 knots for a 75 kilo rider might have a 25-35 knots range for a 100 kilo rider, simply because the extra mass requires more wind to get low-end planing and allows the rider to "hold down" more wind on the top end. The basic idea behind board size and wind range is that a smaller board will shift the wind range up. A smaller board requires more pull from the kite in order to get planing and a larger board requires less pull for early planing and the wind range shifts down. In general, it is easier to become overpowered on a larger board because it is harder to hold an edge. Published wind ranges are a rough guideline and everyone must take into consideration their weight, board length, riding ability, and local wind conditions, when selecting a kite. BUY

What is the difference between low, med and high aspect kites?
The kite aspect ratio is essentially the length from wing tip to wing tip to overall surface area. Thus, the higher the aspect ratio the longer or skinnier the kite is. The higher the aspect of the kite, the more powerful and the loftier it is. As a beginner, you want to start with a low aspect kite that has more range and is more forgiving with less sustained power. Typically intermediate riders prefer a medium aspect kite but it becomes a matter of personal preference and riding style.

To SHIFT (5th Line) or not?
The SHIFT, 5th line, provides additional depower, safety and makes relaunching more efficient, why wouldn’t you use it? It is a bit more complicated and one more thing to learn, but it was designed to improve the bar system and your kiting experience. Also, most of the new Naish kites are 5th line dependant. Through usage of the 5th line, the kite's leading edge is able to be narrower and this makes the kite a lot quicker through the air. Kiting has come a long way over the last few years, in fact kites from 2-3 years ago have become somewhat obsolete as new features and systems are designed. Take advantage of the time taken in researching and testing that has gone into making kiting safer and easier, by using the SHIFT system. It simply requires one more line attachment during setup and adds so much in terms of safety and ease. It is definitely worth investing the time to figure it out. Plus it works every time unlike other systems on the market.

How does line length affect kite performance?
Shorter lines bring the rider closer to the kite which gives the kite faster handling and less power. Shorter lines are safer in high traffic areas due to the reduced distance between the rider and the kite. Additionally, shorter lines are better for wave riding and riding overpowered because of the faster reaction of the kite. In contrast, longer lines give the kite slower handling and more power. Additionally, due to a larger power stroke, longer lines generally allow for more hang time. 24m Lines are the preferred length on most kites.

What is the SHIFT fifth line? Why do I need it? The fifth line system, or SHIFT, is designed to allow you to completely depower your kite, without getting all your lines tangled as you would have with a traditional kite “flag”. When learning or in a situation where you’re out of control, the usual method is to “throw the bar” which engages the one line leash system that flags the kite and typically ends the session as the lines get tangled. With the fifth line, the kite is completely depowered but all 4 flying lines should remain in tact allowing for a quick and safe recovery. It is also useful when relaunching as it eliminates the need for swimming. The SHIFT system also allows for efficient and safe relaunching without the need to swim like the 100m relay team! Reach above the depower strap and pull it a few times to flip the kite onto it's back. Once it is on it's back, the kite can be relaunched. The bonus of the SHIFT system versus another relaunch system is simple, it works, even with slack lines!

I can’t reach the depower strap, how can I customize the bar so that I can?
To adjust the length to reach the depower strap, you need to untie the bowline knot at the end and readjust it. Be careful to fully secure the new knot. In order to compensate for shortening the center lines you need to leave the center lines adjustment on the last knot. The center lines will stretch after ten or so uses so whereas normally you would move the center lines down a couple of knots, in this case you leave them on the last knot. If the center lines are still too short relative to the rear lines you can add a pigtail or small extension to the end of them. If you do not know how to tie a Bowline knot, search the net or head into your local Naish dealer. (LINK TO BOWLINE INSTRUCTION GRAPIC)

How do I set up my board/footstraps?
When you first get your board you have to set up your footstraps to fit you. The best way to install them is to screw in the footstrap screw that is closest to the center of the board with the footstrap spun around 180 degrees first. Once that screw is started, spin the pad around to its correct position. Be sure to screw the screws in straight. If they’re screwed in on an angle you will probably strip the insert and that insert will be useless. Also, be sure not to over tighten the screws. Then the question, "Wide or Regular stance?"

Which board is best for me?
Some of the variables to consider are body size, conditions, skill level and spot (waves vs. flat water). The short answer is the smaller the person, the stronger the wind and the greater the skill, the smaller the board. In contrast, longer boards provide more floatation for larger riders or lighter winds. Ask your friends, the local shops or check out what the pros are using. In the end, board selection depends on personal preference and riding style. BUY

Should I kite Alone?
While kiting can be done alone it is better to have someone to help you launch and land your kite and keep an eye on you while out on the water. As kiting has become increasingly popular it is much easier now than it used to be to find others to kite with. Self-launching and landing are techniques are important to learn, because there may not always be someone around. These practices done improperly can be extremely dangerous so make sure you know how to do them safely. The SHIFT system makes self launching and landing a lot easier, and definitely safer.

Are there any signals that I need to know while on the water?
One good signal to know is the “catch my kite” motion. To indicate to someone on the beach that you’d like them to catch your kite the signal is patting the top of your head. Pat the top of your head a few times to ask someone to catch and land your kite. Also then launching, giving the "Thumbs Up" sign tells the person holding your kite to let go.

Do I need to be super strong?
Although it looks like you might, you really don’t. Kiteboarding is more of a finesse sport than a strength sport. This is because the harness you wear allows you to use a lot of your body weight to hold the kite and “harness” the kite’s power, versus arm strength. However, you definitely need to be a strong swimmer and in good shape, not necessarily to kite but in the event that something goes wrong and you have to swim back. Although it doesn’t require a lot of strength, kiting a lot will get you in good shape both mentally and physically!

GLOSSARY

Kiteboarding: using a kite on the water in conjunction with a board, sick!

Leading Edge Inflatable (LEI) Kite: Kite with inflatable struts, normally half circle or arc shaped.

Bladder: Inflatable plastic tube that fits inside strut housing, like a bike tire. Bladders give the kite structure and shape and most importantly help it to float.

Chicken Loop / Quick Release Trim Loop (QRTL): plastic quick release loop used to control the power of a kite when hooked in to the harness. Available for 5 & 4-line kites.

Trainer Kite: kite suitable for practice on land to simulate kiteboarding, normally smaller than 3 meters squared.

Arrrgggghhhhhh shhhhh*********T!!!!!!!!!! - a kite loop gone wrong!

Flying Lines or Kite Lines: 2 or 4 lines attaching the kite to the leader lines.

OCTOPUS - The single point inflation system from Naish. More

Leader Lines: Thick lines that attach flying lines to control bar. These are essential to reduce risk of line cuts.

Depower or Sheeting Out: Gust control. Reduces power of the kite, by pushing the bar away from you.

Power up or Sheet In: Increases power of the kite, by pulling the bar towards you.

Harness: Attaches the rider to the kite. Transfers the pulling load of the kite to the entire body. Can come as waist harness or a seat harness. Seat harnesses are better for learning.

Overpowered: Using a kite size too big for riders weight and skill. This is extremely dangerous and or fun!

Underpowered: Opposite of overpowered, can be avoided by using a bigger board or a bigger kite.

Upwind: Where the wind is coming from.

Downwind: Where the wind is going.

Reach: Sailing across the wind direction.

Gust: A period of stronger wind than normal.

Lull: A period of lighter wind than normal.

Knot: A measure of wind speed.

TIPS

Every time you use your kite, make sure you deflate all of the struts and pack away dry. This will prolong the life of the valves and bladders, plus if the kite is put away wet, the dark inks on the kite could run. After all, most Naish kites have the Octopus inflation system and this is really easy to inflate, so no excuses!

NEVER leave your kite inflated and fluttering on the beach. Every minute the kite sits on the beach is equal to about an hour off it's life. The trailing edge will become frayed and the sun's UV will harm the integrity of the kite. If you have finished kiting, pack up your kite. If you are coming in for lunch, deflate the leading edge and secure your kite so that it is not going to blow away. In time, you will appreciate this.

Always check your safety systems before each session. Make sure your Quick Release Trim Loop is not stuck or broken. Push away and release and reload before each session provides you with the peace of mind that your chicken loop is in working order.

Wash your bar and lines with fresh water, and brush all of the sand from your kites. You needn't wash your kites often as sea water is not bad for them. If you have been using them in a duck pond, it is good to wash them off. You do not want mildew!

Check your lines for knots. Knots make flying lines a lot weaker and you do not want one breaking on you during a session. If you have a knot, use hair detangler to loosen the knot and unpick it. BUT be careful not to damage the lines. These lines are expensive.

SUGGESTIONS
If you have any good TIPS, please send them through to info@naishafrica.com